Naples: in the shadow of Vesuvius (2024)

Naples, a city of contrasts and cultural riches, is a treasure trove of historical landmarks, artistic wonders, and culinary delights. At its heart lies the historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where narrow streets teem with life and centuries-old buildings hold tales of the past. Here, you'll find the majestic Naples Cathedral, with its intricate Baroque facade, and the iconic Spaccanapoli, a long, straight street that slices through the historic quarter, lined with shops, cafes, and churches.

Nearby, the Archaeological Museum of Naples houses an unparalleled collection of artifacts from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other ancient sites, providing a glimpse into the city's rich history. For a deeper dive into the past, venture underground to explore the Catacombs of San Gennaro, a labyrinth of ancient burial chambers adorned with early Christian frescoes.

But Naples is not just about history; it's also a city of culinary delights. Sample the city's famous pizza, crafted with simple yet flavorful ingredients, or indulge in local specialties like pasta alla genovese and fried seafood. And no visit to Naples would be complete without trying the iconic sfogliatella, a shell-shaped pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese and candied fruit.
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Venture beyond the city limits to discover the breathtaking landscapes of the Amalfi Coast, the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, or the idyllic islands of Capri and Ischia, all easily accessible from Naples. Whether you're exploring its historic streets, savoring its delicious cuisine, or soaking in its stunning vistas, Naples offers a captivating blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.

UNESCO World HeritageSite

Historic Centre of Naples

​Year: 1995

• Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius Day Trip: Explore the ancient ruins of Pompeii, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and hike to the crater of Mount Vesuvius for panoramic views.
• Amalfi Coast Tour: Discover the stunning Amalfi Coast, including picturesque towns like Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, with breathtaking coastal scenery.
• Naples Underground Tour: Descend into the subterranean tunnels of Naples to uncover its hidden history, including ancient aqueducts, catacombs, and WWII air-raid shelters.
• Capri Day Trip: Sail across the Bay of Naples to the enchanting island of Capri, famous for its natural beauty, luxury boutiques, and the stunning Blue Grotto sea cave.
• Naples City Walking Tour: Stroll through the historic streets of Naples with a knowledgeable guide, visiting landmarks like Piazza del Plebiscito, the Royal Palace, and the San Carlo Opera House.
• Pizza Making Class: Learn the secrets of authentic Neapolitan pizza during a hands-on cooking class, where you'll knead dough, top pizzas with local ingredients, and bake them in a wood-fired oven.
• Naples Food Tour: Indulge in the culinary delights of Naples on a food tour, sampling street food, local delicacies like sfogliatelle and pizza fritta, and traditional Neapolitan dishes.
• Herculaneum Archaeological Site: Explore the remarkably preserved ruins of Herculaneum, another ancient city buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.
• Catacombs of San Gennaro: Discover the underground burial chambers of the Catacombs of San Gennaro, where early Christian frescoes and relics offer insight into Naples' religious history.
• Naples Street Art Tour: Immerse yourself in Naples' vibrant street art scene on a guided tour, exploring colorful murals, graffiti, and urban art installations throughout the city's neighborhoods.

Getting to know Naples

The city was founded by the Greeks around 500 BC and was originally calledParthenopebefore being changed toNeapolis, "new city", which eventually morphed in to Napoli, and the anglicised form of the name: Naples.

For those that know where to look, Naples offers a unique experience with a mixture of history, superstition, architectural brilliance and natural beauty. Since 1995, theHistoric Centre of Napleshas been recognised byUNESCOas a world heritage site, and as recently as 2017 it received its second inscription by the same organisation for its tradition of making pizzas. Once you've eaten apizza in Naples, you won't ever want one from somewhere else.

Naples is a deeply religious city where the patron saint Gennaro is worshipped with great devotion. Some of Italy's finest churches can be found here, often hidden behind a slightly faded facade but leaving you open-mouthed in surprise when you enter. There's also a religious fervour around the city's football team, SS Napoli, whose greatest ever player Maradona is worshipped at a city centre shrine.​

Sightseeing Naples - where to start

​Other Italian cities may conjure up certain iconic images such as Rome'sColosseumorPisa's Leaning Towerfor example; Naples doesn't have that obvious "go to" sight that everyone knows, but give it a chance, scratch the surface just a little bit, and you'll open a treasure chest gleaming with jewels.

As the city is so large, it's sometimes difficult to say exactly where the centre is, but as good a starting point for any itinerary is the main square:Piazza del Plebiscito. At one end of the square is the distinctive and unusualBasilica di San Francesco di Paola, while facing it on the opposite side is the huge complex of theRoyal Palace of Naples. This is one of the finest buildings in the city and a must-see with even just its beautiful staircase worth the entry fee alone. Attached to the Royal Palace, theTeatro San Carlois the world's oldest theatre with an unbroken history, one which you can discover more about with a guided tour. ​

The grandeur of the buildings in this part of the city centre continues as you step out of the theatre and you're faced with theGalleria Umberto I. Any visitors to Milan might need to pinch themselves that they're not in the same place as it greatly resembles theGalleria Vittorio Emanuele IIwith its beautiful glass roof and polished floors leading to historic shops. A little tip here, at the Galleria's exit toVia Toledo, you'll find an unassuming little stall where you can buy the famoussfogliatellapastry; you can buy them all over the city but Neapolitans are fussy about having the best and are always willing to make the extra effort to get that extra quality.​​

Underground Naples​Step outside Gambrinus and you'll find a whole host of sights to enjoy in every direction. One that's not always given top-billing by the guide books but in my opinion should be, is theGalleria Borbonica. Its entrance is just a short walk from Piazza del Plebiscito and offers an extraordinary view of the city. The Galleria Borbonica is an underground network of tunnels built by the Bourbon royal family that came to be used for a number of reasons. Among them, its history as a bomb shelter during World War Two means you can quite literally step back in time and see the vehicles of the era such as vintage taxis and vespas, rusting away in the caves. The tunnel complex also conceals the harrowing tales of the people who strived to survive under the most difficult of circ*mstances.

The Galleria Borbonica is just one example of the fascinating Underground Naples attractions. One of the city's most popular sights isNapoli Sotterranea, a complex network of cisterns and aqueducts, so crucial to the development of the city that now offers a fascinating insight into its past. Also underground but offering a different perspective on life are the various catacombs, ancient burial sites from which we have been able to learn so much about life in the city throughout history. There are few cities, if any, that can also offer the spectacle of theCimitero delle Fontanelle, a slightly macabre series of tunnels where thousands of impoverished plague victims were buried and whose bones are now on display. The bones and skulls attract offerings from the living in the hope of good luck, underpinning that superstitious nature of the city's residents.​

Napoli's Centro Storico

​One of the main thoroughfares in Naples is Via Toledo, which confusingly, is also sometimes referred to as Via Roma. This is the main shopping street in the city and leads up to thecentro storico, the historic centre. For many people, this is the real heart and soul of Naples; a series of narrow streets packed with shops, restaurants, apartments and life in general. This is one of the most vibrant areas in Italy where market traders call out their wares while locals argue the topics of the day in tiny bars. Affectionately known asSpaccanpoli, "Split Naples",the officially-named Via Benedetto Croce is one of three streets built on the Roman principle of Decumanus. From above, Spaccanapoli does indeed give the effect of splitting Naples, while the central street just above it is calledVia dei Tribunali- once theDecumanus Maggiore.

The streets of the centro storico are home to numerous of the city's most important sights and you can easily spend a day just in this area alone, uncovering all of their little secrets. Not so secret is the famous work known as theCristo Velato, the "Veiled Christ", an exquisite sculpture that seems to have an almost life-like quality. The Cristo Velato is on display at theSansevero Chapel Museumand there are further religious museums to enjoy within a short walking distance. Among the best of are theChiesa di Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchiaand the beautifulSanta Chiara complex.

Perhaps one of the most representative sights of Naples isVia San Gregorio Armeno. The narrow street is always packed with a sea of people trying to get a glimpse of thepresepe, nativity scenes that also have a modern-day flavour with amusing models of current celebrities on display. What's most remarkable about this street however, is the unassuming entrance to theChiesa di San Gregorio Armeno; the small church is one of the most beautiful in the city, but somehow opens up onto an expansive site with a beautiful garden at the centre of a monastery. The peace and quiet here is in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle just outside its main doors.
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​The most important religious building in the city isNaples Cathedralwhich is home to theCappella di San Gennaro; the chapel dedicated to the city's patron saint. Once a year, a hugely important ceremony takes place in the city where the blood of San Gennaro is brought out to see if it will liquefy. If the blood does liquefy, it means good luck for the city and the ritual is therefore attended by thousands of people, eager to know how things will turn out for the year ahead.​

More unmissable sights in NaplesNaples National Archaeological Museum, just a short distance from the centro storico, is considered one of the finest museums of its kind in the country. A little further out from the city centre lies one of the best museum galleries in Italy: theRoyal Palace of Capodimontewhere the classics are mixed in with contemporary artists. Naples can also boast three castles: close to Piazza del Plebiscito isCastel Nuovowhile a walk along the seaside promenade eventually brings you toCastel dell'Ovo, the "castle of the egg" within which lies an important egg. As long as the egg survives, so will Naples!

The third castle lies in an area calledVomero. This is an area of well-heeled residents and upscale shops that sits on a hill overlooking the city centre. From Vomero'sCastel Sant'Elmoyou can get some of the best views of the city below. You can also visit theCertosa di San Martinonext door or simply loiter at theBelvedere San Martino, a viewing area with further panoramas of Naples and Mount Vesuvius looming menacingly in the background.​

Not only is Naples the cultural capital of the south of Italy, it's also one of the country's most important travel hubs. Firstly,Naples International Airporthelps transport travellers directly to the city from Europe and beyond. From there you can take a bus toNapoli Stazione Centrale, the central train station with rail links to Rome and all of Italy's most important cities.

​Naples also has an important port from which you can take ferries and hydrofoils to the nearby islands of

One of the most remarkable aspects of Naples is its underground Metro system. The modern rail network offers a quick and efficient means of travelling around the city, but its set apart from equivalent systems in other cities by its beauty. A number of "art stations" make up the network with some weird and wacky designs on display at stations such asToledoandUniversità, showing Naples as the modern metropolis it is and perhaps helping to dispel certain stereotypes that have become stuck to it over the years.​

Naples Ferry Schedules